Food > The Big Eat Out: or IN

Just Lobsters

27/10/15

The Gen

Take a step across the threshold and you leap the Atlantic in a single stride landing surprisingly unsoggily on Plymouth Rock. New England lives in one of Norwich’s older quarters, Tombland, behind the mock Tudor (‘Hey Henry, ruffs are soooo 1540’s!’) frontage of Just Lobsters co. In another snub to the chubby monarch, cod pieces are all but absent from the menu; the seafood focus being subtly hinted at in the name. I hope you’re hungry after your trans-oceanic voyage as the city’s very own ‘lobster shack’ are keen to show off the portion control associated with their American inspiration.

The Atmosphere

A sweet coastal sharpness floats across to our table – not unpleasant like some fishy smells, but a gentle reminder of the sea, fresh and appealing. The place is bright and open, shiny wooden tables hint at driftwood polished bright by the tide and stand beside clean painted wood panelled walls and floors with fake window shutters. It all invokes the lobster shacks it aspires to but is perhaps more a sanitised, Disney-fied interpretation of those originals. Still, it is a nice setting to spend a chilly Autumn (Fall?) evening. A cartoon lobster mascot looks down from the walls, his cheery grin morphing without moving into a rictus of horror as the diners crack the limbs of his delicious fallen friends.

Starter – Popped Shrimp

Like all the best food it’s served in a bucket. A very stylish ceramic bucket on a dark wooden board. The presentation furthered the idea of a genteel and tamed interpretation of coastal dining, like if Captain Birdseye combed his beard. The coldwater Atlantic prawns are coated in a soft tempura style batter; hot and liberally salted, they were a great start to whet our appetites. They come served with their own prawn cocktail dipping sauce which offered a greater depth of flavour.

The Main Event – Lobster Mornay / Lobster Mac ‘n’ Cheese

Our eyes met across the table. Mine and my suppers. One pair, small, beady, glassy and dead. The other pair were on the lobster. I was armed with a ghastly array of implements, rejects from Poseidon’s torture chamber for being ‘a bit on the nasty side.’ On my nautical adventure I circumnavigated the lobster with all the grace of a drunken Columbus. Like Columbus, the natives never stood a chance.

Lobster seems a subtle and delicate taste, a little insufficient on its own but an excellent vessel for stronger flavours. The Lobster Mornay is half an enormous beast covered in rich Vermont cheddar sauce, breadcrumbs and baked. The contrast in textures between the three ingredients make for a multifaceted mouthful. The highlights of the dish are the stronger flavoured meats, but these require some work and a lack of conscience to uncover. The proffered plastic bib makes for an undignified evening for both diner and dinner but the meal was nonetheless excellent.

The Mac and Cheese, a standard American staple, was delicious, with a further helping of the Vermont cheddar, breadcrumbs and half a lobster chopped and added. It was an enjoyable dish but I’m not sure how much was improved with inclusion of the lobster. With the absence of any vegetarian options on the menu it may be better have the obvious option to leave it out. If you’re a vegetarian I’d suggest eating around the fishy bits – that counts, right?

Both meals were served with fries and corn on the cob drowned in melted butter.

Overall

Traditional New England chow served in bright and pleasant surroundings. Just Lobster co are a franchise, and while a very welcome and different addition to the assembly it shares the same feeling of inauthenticity. It’s a little too perfect when you consider it in comparison to its rugged North Atlantic coast inspiration. The meals are lovely and well-presented but that should not come as a surprise when the bill arrives. £19.00 for Mac and Cheese is a lot, even with lobster, but it is to be expected by the nature of the venue. It isn’t somewhere most people could visit regularly but I’d encourage you to try it for a special occasion. They’re advertising the Christmas menu, and I’d be very disappointed if the lobsters weren’t served with mini Santa hats and cotton wool beards.

Venue – 6.5

Fodder – 7.5

Value – 6

Overall 6.5