Food > The Big Eat Out: or IN
Loch Fyne, Norwich // Food Review
04/07/12
THE GEN: Starting as small roadside stall on the banks of the loch, the first Loch Fyne restaurant south of the border was launched 21 years ago now, Loch Fyne has maintained a fantastic reputation over the years, with its consistently delicious, sustainably sourced fresh fish, seafood and shellfish. Loch Fyne is a celebration venue, and the chosen restaurant years before for my own 21st birthday, so it seems only right that I should be turning up my collar in this bracing evening in Norwich as the rain lashes down, heading towards the welcome warmth of Loch Fyne in this, its own 21st year.
ATMOSPHERE: Sat against the expansive window, we felt tied to the city outside, but with all the warmth of a well-attended relaxed eaterie.
TO START: Bradan Rost Paté served on Scottish Oat Cakes On the recommendation of our hugely attentive and passionate waiter – it’s as if he’d been a-trawling for the menu fayre himself – I went with the special, a Scottish mainstay of Bradan Rost (kiln roasted salmon fillet) in pate form. The fish’s gentle smokiness conjured up the silkiness of embers as they leave their charred mark on the furnace, and it was a joy to pile high (a generous portion) on the earthy oatcakes.
THE MAIN EVENT: Monkfish Thai Green Curry with Jasmine Rice, served with Prawn Crackers. Monkfish is a sea creature loved and disliked for the very same reason – its thick meatiness - and which side of the fence you swim over to usually depends on who’s cooking it. Luckily Loch Fyne show are fish masters, and the dish presented was a sumptuous, fragrant and filling embrace of a dish. With just enough chilli heat, fragrant coriander and lemongrass creating a heady steam around the spoon, it might as well have dried up the rainclouds. The prawn crackers were a nice token, but really unnecessary; no-one needs a reminder of a Thai takeaway counterpart.
PUD: Pudding denied: Again I was beaten by the first two courses, and couldn’t stretch my stomach for pud. I must put in more training.
DRINKS: There’s an element of swank to Loch Fyne – that air that makes it ripe for a celebration location – that might unnerve you, but the hugely knowledgeable waiting staff can turn sommelier at a simple request, giving you suitable wine choices… with no hint of pretention.
VALUE: Loch Fyne is not an everyday restaurant; rarely is such attention given to fish – this means, however, that it has a price to match. Whilst at the higher end of chain prices, with mains loitering towards £15-20 mark, take advantage of the restaurant’s regular special offers – their prix fixe and lunch menus are hard to beat on value with 2 courses for under £10.
OVERALL: The food was more than enjoyable, but the service was outstanding and would fit the bill for any special occasion. Dive right in to seafood of fantastic quality, from sustainable sources and wonder why you would ever miss meat.