Food > The Big Eat Out: or IN

The Reindeer

28/05/15

THE GEN: It was some two or three years ago since I last reviewed The Reindeer; the staunchly British pub and restaurant looked set to make a name for itself in Norwich’s burgeoning food scene, especially as the place to go if you fancied the odd duck’s heart, calf’s liver or pig tail. It wasn’t a fad. Whether you were the sort of diner who couldn’t contain themselves over the prospect of a deep fried nipple or two (disclaimer: I’ve never actually seen those on the menu), The Reindeer’s ‘nose to tail’ attitude afforded them an important title to all diners; they quickly showed themselves as unwavering celebrators of food.

ATMOSPHERE: I’ve made reference to how The Reindeer proudly shows its British lineage in its drink and dinner, but tonight, on their weekly ‘T-Bone Tuesdays’ night, there was a distinctly different vibe. With the country blues of one-man band, Space Eagle breaking the gentle hum of a gathering clientele, the usual steady soundtrack of friends and lovers sharing thoughts and laughter was exchanged for the music of the Southern States. There was foot tapping, there was head nodding, and there was even a little dancing in this unassuming pub, in Norwich, on a Tuesday night.

THE MAIN EVENT: The 34oz Tomahawk Steak with Hand Cut Chips, Onion Rings and Garnish T-Bone Tuesdays is The Reindeer’s (relatively) new steak night, where each week they celebrate traditional, perfectly and lovingly reared grass-fed breeds of Britain. ‘Grass-fed’ is in danger of being bandied about – it’s as buzz as organic was ten years ago, so before we let the hipsters get hold of it and apply it to their sandwiches, cereal and leather bike panniers, let’s qualify its benefits: high in antioxidants, vitamins, minerals and nutrients, the bottom line is if the cow’s eaten well, you will eat well. But what difference does it make to the taste? Luckily, I had 34oz of research to find out. Tonight’s battle was between my wife and I in the red corner, and an East Anglian Red Poll breed in the blue. The tomahawk cut is so named because of its similarity in shape to the weapon, but when the mighty steak came out on its platter, I wasn’t sure if the weapon was for me to wield, or for it to turn back on me and split my stomach lining, such was its powerful size. Let me just get this straight now: this was far and away the best steak I’ve ever had, by a country mile. The salt-rich crust gave way to ounce after ounce of the juiciest prime beef you’ve ever been lucky enough to taste. I was determined to crow as much of the sexy animal into my face before I hit the expected meat wall. But then there were the diversions; hand-cut chips that oozed taste from their left-on skin, tomatoes that were baked to a scientific level of maximum taste, onion rings the size of tricycle wheels and a bulging verge of mushrooms – again, let me get this straight: the best mushrooms I’d ever tasted, and I’m a big fan. We made our way through each of those 34oz, with barely more than a few shreds of fat that we had to move aside, and reached a mild, but ecstatic delirium when we reached the clean bone. 

DRINKS: I already felt like a bonafide Gaucho tackling my pound share of the meat, so it seemed only right to go for an Argentian red from the wine selection. A very fair priced Carmenère, that smacked of South American cacao was a great complement to the iron-rich meat. 

VALUE: At £48 between two for the sharing Tomahawk steak, you may feel like it leaves a heavier dent in your pocket than the usual midweek splurge, but let me talk straight to you just one last time: it’s worth every meaty penny. We added four glasses of wine and a shared pudding (because we’re unashamed gluttons) and it came to £72, for the most memorable food experience we’ve had in some time.

OVERALL: With steak, chips and its humble accoutrements, like Janet Jackson at the Super Bowl, you leave yourself exposed. Like Janet though, The Reindeer can be comfortable in flaunting it. They are consistently regarded for their uncompromising food offering, including their famous special events, and this is another meat-flecked feather in their cap.

VENUE: 10/10

FODDER: 10/10

VALUE: 10/10